Jennifer Lewis,
Samosa Expert.
At first, the hardest thing about moving to Mombasa was leaving behind
certain delicious foods. My personal favourites included everything bagels with
cream cheese and chocolate covered pretzels. Unfortunately, it’s too hot in
Kenya for chocolate covered pretzels to resist becoming ''pretzels within a
chocolate blob'' and I've found nothing comparable to a New York bagel.
Luckily, Kenya offers some tasty alternatives, such as viazi (battered and deep
fried potatoes,) mandazi (basically a
doughnut,) and the beloved samosa. All of these bitings are sold right on the
street, usually outside of the woman's house that made them. Viazi and mandazi
you can find anywhere, but before you go into the village looking for samosa,
you should consult an expert. Better yet, the expert!
I'm
proud to say I've spent a substantial amount of time hunting down and sampling
all the samosas in Bombolulu. Because of my frequent wanderings around the
village, I've been able to see much more of Bombolulu than I would have
otherwise not seen. Bombolulu is currently undergoing a rainy season makeover.
The main road has been paved, and large trenches have been dug to drain water
away from the shops and houses. If you're really craving a samosa and all the
vendors on the main road are sold out, you may have to venture deeper into the
village where most people live. Beyond the main street, Bombolulu gets quite
fascinating. The streets condense to a generous meter, and the tightly
scattered shacks and houses become a maze. Women and adorably friendly children
sit outside their homes, cooking or seeking shade from the sun. It is
impressive that most Bombolulu residents can easily navigate their way through
the narrow streets without getting lost. I haven't had such luck, but whilst I
was wandering in Bombolulu's labyrinth I've discovered and sampled a majority
of the samosas.
I've found that the products vary in
taste, size, consistency and accessibility.
Most samosas, or as the locals call them ''sambusa,'' will sell for 3
shillings, or about 5 U.S. cents! However, posted up just outside Olives
Rehabilitation Center you'll find miniature samosas for just one shilling each.
Everyday like clockwork, a woman sells these lovely little snacks and offers
you a spicy spoonful of chilli sauce. These samosas get top marks in
consistency and accessibility, but due to the small size and less substantial
filling, they do not deserve the title of ''Best in Bombolulu.''
Now, I'm
not sure what the secret is behind the golden ratio of samosa crispiness and
savouriness, but I do know where to find the samosa guru of Bombolulu. She has
been nicknamed by the locals, ''Madam Sambusa.'' Just a short walk from Olive's
you'll find her fast asleep next to the
samosa mountain she creates every morning. You may be wondering why this woman
could sleep so soundly next to her coveted prize. This is where her samosas
fault in accessibility. In order to obtain her perfect samosas you must
successfully complete a series of tasks.
First,
you must leap over a trench. After you've made it over, you will then scale a
10 foot long, narrow, and rocky ledge. If you fail either of these tests, you
may prolong the samosa goodness. Once you've made it to the samosa pile, it is
then time to awaken the sleeping master. Here you must proceed with caution.
The woman must be awoken gently or she will be cross with you and angrily serve
you the worst of the batch. However, if all goes well she'll load up a piece of
gently used newspaper with the most delicious samosas you could ever imagine,
but the mission is not yet over.
Next you need to safely navigate yourself and
the samosas back across the ledge and over the trench. Make sure to resist the
urge to sample a samosa before you've made it back, as this could endanger
yourself and the samosa! Finally, once you're back on stable ground you may
then devour the samosas. The effort to get these amazing samosas is less a test
of athleticism, then a test of how badly you want the best samosas in
Bombolulu.
By Jennifer Lewis
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